Subways

I had a lot of expectations about riding the famed “Tokyo Subways” because, legend has it, they are the most crowded, cramped, and busiest in the world. The day before my first day of classes, I went on a “practice run” to test out my route. Two Problems. First: I didn’t look at what time I left my dorm, I started timing from the first subway ride. Second: This was a lazy Sunday afternoon, not 7:30am on a Monday, so I didn’t account for the time involved in maneuvering around the station.

Well, after riding in the mornings for almost 2 weeks, I would like to think I’ve got the hang of it. Here’s basically how it goes. When the train pulls up, each time without fail, I think “there’s no way anyone else can fit in there.” There are literally people packed into every inch of the train. I’m usually about the 10^th person in line at any given door, so I’m praying that at least 10 people get off. Well, usually about 5 get off. So, with a full head of steam, and the force of everyone pushing behind me, I smash my way in, barely making it into train car.

I’m so packed in that I have to put my arm up before I get in the car, because there’s on room to lift or lower my arms once I’m inside, so if I want to hold onto a handle, I need my arm up BEFORE I get in. Well, after I’m in about 10-15 more people cram themselves in the car. Now I’m no longer by the door, but smooshed into the middle—keep in mind I thought I was lucky to get in at all. Anyway, I’m completely stuck, and although I’m taller than most people, there are a lot of tall Japanese people (not everyone’s an oopma loompa like I imagined), I’m usually staring into some guys armpit.

At the next stop, there’s a crushing flow of people as those who want get off but are stuck in the middle, just force there way towards the doors. Now that there’s a moment of actually space/fresh air. This is short lived. Now I’m on the inside watching the craziness as a huge amount of people force themselves into the car.

The subway “pros” (ie, all the guys in business suits) close there eyes, and BACK INTO people. Apparently that’s the protocol because you don’t look at the person you’re trampling over. Back first also gives you more leverage to force your way in. I imagine the eye-closing also serves as some sort of Japanese meditation technique to escape the fact that for the next 15-20 minutes you’ll be essentially grinding with the 5 closest guys.

The other day when I got on the second train (I have a transfer in my commute) as soon as the doors opened, this poor woman was looking down, and she just got bum-rushed. I’m mean she looked like a defensive tackle getting blown off the line of scrimmage. I could tell she was trying to dig in, but she went from the front door to the back door with about 15 people pushing her in about 2 seconds. Well, with the path cleared for me, I just stepped in the car, unscathed.

A final note about the station attendants with white gloves. I was really hoping that these guys would actually push people on the train car like I had heard. Well, while they don’t actually push anyone (at least I’ve never seen it) they do kind of prop people up who would have fallen out, until the doors can safely close. The whole time they’re touching someone, they use the politely expression something it’s translate “Honorably, excuse my extreme rudeness.” Or something like that. These guys also help shut the doors if there are too many people leaning on them. The doors are unlike those in America. In America if you stick your hand between them as they close, the doors pop back open, and you would never lean on the doors while the train is moving. In Japan, get away from the doors when they’re closing, ‘cause you’d probably lose a finger (well maybe not, but these doors don’t spring open, the slam shut, again) and you have no choice but to lean on them when it’s so crowded.